How to Install a Shower Screen Yourself
The straight answer from a working Adelaide glazier: the tools you need, how to measure, the steps in order, the mistakes that cause leaks, and the point where calling us costs less than pushing on.
Your Local Glazier · Adelaide owned and operated · Updated September 2026
Toughened safety glass thickness
To lift a frameless panel safely
The standard your screen must meet
On site measure and quote
Type how to install shower screen into a search bar and you get two kinds of results: videos that make it look like an hour’s work, and horror stories about leaks that turned up months later. Both are real. The difference between them is preparation.
This guide covers the whole job honestly, from the tools to the final bead of silicone, including the parts most guides skip. Read it before you order glass, because with a shower screen the ordering is where most DIY jobs are won or lost.
The short answer
A framed or semi frameless kit over a bath or in a square alcove, fitted to sound tiles, is a realistic weekend job for a careful DIYer. A frameless screen is not. The panels are heavy, the tolerances are tight, and toughened glass cannot be trimmed if the measurement is out.
Tools and Materials Needed
Gather everything before the glass arrives. Half finished jobs sit in bathrooms for weeks because one fitting or the right drill bit was missing on the day.
Tools
- Tape measure and a long level. A 1200mm level shows you the true line of a wall. A short one hides it.
- Drill with diamond tile bits. Plus a masonry bit for the wall behind the tile. The hammer function stays off.
- Fine tooth hacksaw and a mitre box. For cutting aluminium channels square on framed and semi frameless kits.
- Silicone gun, plastic blade and methylated spirits. For stripping old sealant and cleaning every surface the new bead will touch.
- Suction cups, packers and masking tape. Cups for moving glass, packers to set it level, tape to stop the drill bit wandering on glazed tile.
- Safety glasses and cut resistant gloves. Toughened glass breaks into small pieces, but the edges of a whole panel are still sharp.
Materials
- Grade A toughened safety glass. Cut, drilled and toughened at the factory to your final sizes. AS 1288 requires it in a shower.
- Channels, hinges, clamps and fixings. Whatever your system specifies, with wall plugs to suit brick, block or stud framing.
- Neutral cure sanitary silicone. Mould resistant and safe on metal hardware. Acetic cure silicone corrodes fittings over time.
- Drop sheets and clean microfibre cloths. To protect the base and vanity, and to finish the glass without streaks.
If you would rather see what a made to measure screen costs before you buy a kit, our shower screens Adelaide page covers frameless, semi frameless and custom designs, all measured, supplied and fitted.
Measuring Your Space Correctly
Everything else in this guide can be corrected on the day. The measurement cannot, because toughened glass leaves the factory finished. Give this step the time it deserves.
- Measure the width at three heights. Top, middle and bottom. Openings taper, so record all three and work to the smallest.
- Measure the height at both sides. Hobs and floors are rarely level. Again, use the smaller figure and let packers make up the difference.
- Check every wall for plumb. Hold the long level against the tile. Anything more than a few millimetres out needs a system with adjustment, or a glazier.
- Check the hob or base for level. Mark the high point. The glass sits on packers from there.
- Plan the door swing. Open it in your mind. Does it clear the vanity, the toilet, the towel rail and the tap handles?
- Draw it. A simple sketch with every measurement on it stops mistakes when you order and again when you fit.
Before you order
Kits list an adjustment range, and frameless systems list almost none. If your measurements fall near the edge of that range, or the walls are out of plumb, stop and get a free measure. It costs nothing and it can save you a second panel.
Step by Step: How to Install Shower Screen Panels
The order matters. Every step below sets up the next one, and rushing an early step shows up as a leak at the end.
Protect the room and strip the old screen
Cover the base, floor and vanity. Remove the old panels and channels, then cut away every trace of old silicone with a plastic blade. New sealant will not bond to old residue.
Clean and check the surfaces
Wipe the tiles with methylated spirits and let them dry. Tap the tiles around the opening. Hollow sounding tiles, failed grout or soft spots need a tiler before glass goes anywhere near them.
Mark the channel positions
Hold the channel to the wall, set it plumb with the long level, and mark the fixing holes. Put masking tape over each mark so the drill bit cannot skate.
Drill the tiles
Diamond bit, slow speed, hammer off, a little water to keep the bit cool. Once through the tile, swap to a masonry bit for the wall behind. Fill each hole with silicone before the fixing goes in, so water can never track into the wall.
Fix the channels or hinges
Screw the hardware home and check plumb again before the final turn. Snug is enough. Overtightening distorts channels and cracks tiles.
Set the glass
With a second person, lift the panel on suction cups onto packers in the channel. Adjust until it reads plumb both ways, then tighten clamps or wedges only as far as the instructions say.
Hang and align the door
Fit hinges, pivots or rollers, then run the door through its full travel. Adjust until it closes cleanly and holds position on its own.
Seal the right face, then wait
Run a neutral cure sanitary bead on the outside of the screen where it meets the tile, following your system’s sealing diagram. Tool it smooth, then leave the shower alone for a full 24 hours.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
We see the results of these on repair calls every week. None of them are hard to avoid once you know they exist.
- Measuring once. Measure three times, on different days if you can. Toughened glass has no tolerance for a rushed number.
- Ordering before checking plumb. A perfect panel in an out of plumb opening still leaves a wedge shaped gap.
- Drilling with the hammer setting on. Tiles spider instantly. Slow, cool and patient is the only way through glazed tile.
- Skipping silicone in the fixing holes. Water tracks down the screw and into the wall cavity. Nothing shows until the skirting swells in the next room.
- Using the wrong silicone. Acetic cure corrodes hardware and general purpose silicone grows mould. Use neutral cure sanitary grade.
- Sealing the inside face. Water that gets behind the channel then has nowhere to drain except into your wall.
- Overtightening clamps. One of the most reliable ways to break a toughened panel, sometimes days after you tighten it.
- Showering too soon. The seal is still soft for 24 hours. Disturb it and it leaks for the life of the screen.
Not sure your bathroom suits a DIY fit?
Send us a photo of the opening and your rough measurements. A local glazier will tell you honestly whether it is a kit job or a trade job, and quote free of charge if it is ours.
Risks of DIY vs Benefits of Professional Installation
Knowing how to install shower screen panels on paper and getting it right in a real, slightly out of square Adelaide bathroom are two different things. Here is what you carry when you do it yourself, and what you get when you do not.
What you risk doing it yourself
- Injury. A 10mm frameless panel weighs around 45kg and has no frame to hold. A dropped panel or a knocked edge can break with real force.
- A wasted panel. Toughened glass cannot be recut or redrilled. One wrong measurement means buying it again.
- Water damage you cannot see. A poorly sealed screen leaks into the wall, not the shower. The repair involves a tiler and a waterproofer, not a glazier.
- Compliance and warranty. AS 1288 applies to every shower screen in Australia. Manufacturers often void the warranty on self installed hardware, and insurers can decline water damage claims caused by poor workmanship.
What a professional install gives you
- Glass made to your room as built. We measure at three heights, check plumb and level, and order to suit the opening, not the plan.
- The right specification. Grade A toughened glass at the correct thickness, typically 6mm for semi frameless and 10mm for frameless.
- A seal that stays sealed. Neutral cure sanitary silicone on the correct face, with every fixing hole sealed before the screw goes in.
- Insurance and backing. Fully insured glaziers who stand behind the work, so a small adjustment later is a phone call, not a project.
- Value. Quotes are free, most screens are fitted in a single visit once the glass arrives, and we beat any written quote by up to 10%.
For the styles we fit, see frameless shower screens and custom shower screens.
The Short Answer: Should You Fit Your Own Shower Screen?
So, how to install shower screen panels the right way? Measure the opening at three heights, order Grade A toughened glass to suit the room as it really is, strip and clean the surfaces, drill slowly and seal every hole, set the glass plumb on packers, silicone the outside face, then wait 24 hours.
If that list reads as manageable and your screen is a framed or semi frameless kit on square walls, go for it. If it is frameless, custom sized or the walls run out of true, a free quote from a local glazier is the cheaper path.
Shower Screen DIY FAQs
How long does it take to install a shower screen yourself?
Allow a full day for a first attempt on a framed or semi frameless kit, plus 24 hours for the silicone to cure before anyone showers. A professional fit takes two to four hours once the glass arrives.
What tools do I need to install a shower screen?
A tape and long level, a drill with diamond tile bits, a hacksaw for channels, a silicone gun, suction cups, packers, masking tape, and safety glasses with cut resistant gloves. Neutral cure sanitary silicone is the one material people most often get wrong.
Can I install a frameless shower screen myself?
We do not recommend it. A 10mm frameless panel weighs around 45kg, needs two people and suction cups to move, and relies on tolerances of a millimetre or two at the clamps. Get one measurement wrong and the panel cannot be adjusted.
Do I seal the inside or the outside of the screen?
The outside, where the screen meets the tile, unless your system’s sealing diagram says otherwise. Sealed that way, any water that gets behind the channel drains back into the shower instead of into the wall.
What happens if I measure wrong?
Toughened glass cannot be cut, drilled or ground after toughening, so a wrong measurement means a new panel. That is why we measure every opening at three heights before we order anything.
Can you fix a DIY shower screen that leaks or sticks?
Yes. Our shower screen repairs cover cracked panels, worn seals, hinges and rollers across Adelaide, and we will tell you honestly whether a repair or a new screen makes more sense.
Rather have it fitted right the first time?
We measure, supply and fit frameless, semi frameless and custom shower screens across metro Adelaide. Local, fully insured, fitted to AS 1288, and we clean up after ourselves.
- Adelaide owned and operated
- Fitted to Australian Standards
- Fully insured glaziers
- We beat any written quote by up to 10%











